Out of the turkey coma? Time to hit the garage then. A nitrous system is easy horsepower and David Freiburger from Hot Rod is here to show you exactly how to install one. There's that moment in life when you go to the bathroom, wash your face, look into the mirror, take a deep breath and say the following out loud:. I need NOS.
Be sure to mount the bottle with bottle brackets and the pickup tube oriented correctly.
How do you hook up nitrous
For systems that utilize a nozzle located in the air intake, location and orientation of the nozzle must be carefully selected, aiming the stream of nitrous into the throttle body without obstruction. It is also imperative that the point of injection be located downstream of the mass airflow sensor, if a vehicle is so equipped.
In addition, nitrous blowing through it throws off the sensor's reading.
Remember, one of the reasons nitrous works so well as a bolt-on for late-model vehicles is because the computer does not know it is there. As another word of warning, don't forget to use nitrous filters and fuel filters. You do not want a nitrous solenoid to get stuck open on you because it gets dirty or worn out. Solenoids must also be rebuilt periodically, but it takes a lot of use to wear them out.
Operation Unless you are using a progressive system, nitrous oxide may only be used under full-throttle conditions at sufficient engine speeds, rpm being the suggested minimum. Failure to comply with this rule can result in a very damaging situation, the most awesome being the infamous nitrous backfire. This event can easily blow apart your intake system, cause cosmetic damage, and start a fire. To prevent this, install a full-throttle activation switch. This switch needs to be mounted so that some part of the throttle body mechanism contacts it at full throttle, allowing the system to operate.
It's also a good idea to have an rpm-activated switch so that the system can't operate below a certain engine speed, being the minimum.
NOS' direct-port nitrous injection system is not as complicated as you might think. Being a 'dry system', you just need to drill the intake, put the nozzles into each runner, bend the hardline, sort of the electronics, put together the remaining bits and adjust the engine management to maximize the power output.
It's good practice to rid the nitrous lines of vapor, in order to avoid a rich condition and hesitation upon system activation. However, many people do this by simultaneously whacking the throttle and hitting the nitrous while in neutral. Occasionally this results in the aforementioned violent intake explosion.
It is therefore in your best interest to have a purge solenoid kit, which at the simple press of a button vents nitrous into the atmosphere. The purge line should be mounted where visible, so that one can watch for when the plume of gas blows thick and stable, indicating that liquid has reached the solenoids and the system is ready to go.
How to Prep Your First hp Nitrous Shot
Bottle Pressure Bottle pressure is a function of both the amount of nitrous remaining in the bottle and the temperature of the bottle.
On a cold day you may only see psi, while on an extremely hot day you could see well over 1, psi.
Because the flow rate of the nitrous is greatly affected by pressure, it's important to run the same pressure every time. An electric bottle warmer is the solution to this.
Most bottle warmers are equipped with thermostats that automatically turn the warmer on and off to keep the bottle within a certain temperature range. Unfortunately, due to their simple design, such thermostats are highly unreliable. Eliminate the thermostat and rely only on a manual switch to operate the warmer. Generally, nitrous flows well anywhere from psi up. A pressure of about 1, psi is a good choice because this is what the pressure will be anyway on a warm summer day, so you'll never have to cool the bottle.
Install a nitrous pressure gauge on the dashboard where you can quickly reference it, and have the switch for the bottle warmer right there as well. This way, you can turn the warmer on and off and keep pressure at its optimum. Just remember to watch bottle pressure closely and not leave the warmer on while unattended. For our interests, higher exhaust temperatures are the result of leaner mixtures, while lower exhaust gas temperatures indicate overly rich mixtures.
By installing an exhaust gas temperature EGT gauge, you'll have advance warning of when you are going to do harm to your motor. The gauge should be mounted in plain view so that it can be continuously monitored, especially as you proceed down the quarter mile.
You'll see the reading get higher and higher and eventually peak a ways past the finish line due to the inherent delay in the device.
You shouldn't aim for a certain temperature; just use the gauge as an early warning device to when things are going to start getting a little too crazy in the combustion chamber.
You'll also know for sure when the nitrous bottle is going empty, since the overly rich mixture will cause exhaust temperature to cool significantly. Also, if you have coated headers, you can make sure the exhaust doesn't get hot enough to damage the coating, though this may not necessarily be your maximum horsepower. Ignition System In order to ignite that potent intake charge, good aftermarket ignition systems along with reduced spark plug gaps are needed.
A spec of 0. In addition, colder-heat-range spark plugs are normally necessary to dissipate heat from the plug, averting misfire and plug melting. Normally one or two heat ranges colder is sufficient. And unfortunately, platinum plugs are not going to cut it either.
Platinum is a poor conductor of both spark energy and heat, and this is exactly what you don't want. Probably the most important thing to remember in terms of the ignition system is not to use too much timing advance. While it's true that when you advance timing, you make more power-until you get to the point of detonation-much less timing is needed to arrive at optimum power with nitrous use.
Camaro nitrous install
Due to the much higher cylinder pressures generated by a more intense burn, nitrous motors need retarded ignition timing in order to delay the time of peak pressure, keeping cylinder pressures within reason and thus avoiding abnormal combustion. In this case as well, it's best to follow the guidelines recommended by nitrous system manufacturers when it comes to amount of timing retard required.
Often the stock setting is acceptable, but when not shooting the spray, most cars perform better with advanced timing. This doesn't mean that you need to run retarded timing all the time and lose performance when running naturally-aspirated.
Companies like MSD Ignition offer a number of devices that allow you to retard timing as needed when the juice starts to flow. A retard unit will automatically retard timing by a user-defined amount whenever the system is turned on.
This setup is simple and foolproof.
Nov 01, Bottle Pressure Bottle pressure is a function of both the amount of nitrous remaining in the bottle and the temperature of the bottle. On a cold day you may only see psi, while on an extremely hot day you could see well over 1, psi. Because the flow rate of the nitrous is greatly affected by pressure. Jan 23, After getting the Nitrous Express budget nitrous system installed, PoorManMods shows you how to install a nitrous purge solenoid system. The NX Purge Valve System is designed to purge the air from Author: Poor Man Mods. Sep 20, With an entry-level nitrous kit, Nitrous Oxide Systems says the fuel pump needs to maintain between and 7 psi of pressure with a flow rate of gallons per horsepower at 6 psi. For example, adding a hp nitrous shot to an engine that produces hp at Author: Marlan Davis.
Another device available for retarding timing is an adjustable timing control. This unit has a knob that allows you to adjust timing over a wide range from the comfort of your driver's seat. When you want to use some spray, just turn the knob back to the desired timing and off you go.
The disadvantage to this approach is that you have to actually remember to twist the knob back when you are about to use the system. If you can trust yourself to remember this, you'll enjoy on-the-fly, instantaneous timing adjustments for tuning purposes and to compensate for different situations on the street such as best fuel economy.
A related topic to ignition is an rpm limiter. As for ignition advance, the rule for a mostly street-driven car is to retard total timing 2 to 2. For example, if you run 32 degrees total now with no power-adder, with a hp nitrous shot, pull the timing back by 6 to 7. Besides ignition and electrical demands, you need to pay attention to the demands of the system's solenoids and relays, aka the "primary" electrical system.
If it's necessary to extend wire length beyond that offered in the kit, move to the next thicker wire-gauge size for example, if the kit came with gauge wire, and you have to lengthen the wires, use at least gauge.
Don't skimp on wire quality, terminals, and splices. Don't rely on cheap butt connectors; instead, solder and cover with shrink tubing. Pay careful attention to ground integrity. Don't forget-and this goes for any nitrous system, be it entry-level or full-competition- N2O isn't a crutch that bulks up otherwise weak engines or marginal tuneups; it only magnifies existing problems.
Get the engine running right on the motor alone before hitting the bottle, then dial in the nitrous oxide on one of your chosen kit's recommended lower-power tuneups. If it doesn't perform as it should, don't step up to the next level until you've sorted out any existing problems. Change only one thing at a time. Learn how to read spark plugs-they can tell you a lot about what the engine likes.
Making nitrous work for you can be carefree as long as you follow these important steps.
Don't be afraid to ask fellow racers or your system's tech-support personnel for help. Finally, don't fall victim to More's Law the fallacy that if a little "something" is good, more of that "something" has just gotta be better yet.
Once the system is dialed in and running well at the hp power-shot level, you'll be tempted to turn the wick up even further many of today's single-stage plate systems can, in theory, support up to hp.
But nitrous shots that approach or exceed the hp range usually require a range of additional upgrades; at that level, you need to consider stronger internal engine parts, premium aftermarket ignition upgrades, and even a separate auxiliary fuel-supply system.
I am in desperate need of body and interior parts. I need one of the big ones. Freiburger's '67 Crusher Camaro has a cubic inch Mast LS7 with around horsepower in it, which makes this yellow beauty a sub-ten second car already.
But of course he wants to go into the low nines, and that's where nitrous comes in. NOS' direct-port nitrous injection system is not as complicated as you might think. Being a 'dry system', you just need to drill the intake, put the nozzles into each runner, bend the hardline, sort of the electronics, put together the remaining bits and adjust the engine management to maximize the power output.
Well, okay, you also have to change the gearing. And the gearbox, in case yours is too weak to take about hp.